THE GARDEN ROUTE AND SOME SA DOWNSIDES

Spent our last week on the famous Garden Route that extends eastwards along the coastline from Cape Town.

Not quite what we expected, as the end of the summer meant the end of most of the flowers. The fynbos is the generic name for the bush, all along the area between coast and mountains, with the many proteus plants and others, giving wonderful springtime displays. So, will have to come back for that – and to see the whales that can be seen in droves from many parts of the coastline here – sounds like they would be amazing July to November when they migrate.

It was a long drive from Cape Town area to reach the different towns and villages- not helped by the N2 main road being full of roadworks, with 20 minute delays if you miss the convoy in your direction. We also found that as strangers still to South Africa, we are still nervous of leaving the main roads and paths and going walkabout, as we would elsewhere in the developed world. A strange mixture all along the coast of posh holiday homes, retirement communities, black townships and the newer affordable homes springing up to replace the old shacks. The towns were also a mixture of “safe”, but sanitised, marina areas (like anywhere else in the world, full of tourist/chain shops and cafes – nice, but can be enjoyed elsewhere) and the cheaper areas for the local black communities.

As outsiders we find the security problems a constant niggle at the back of our minds – gated housing estates, barricaded houses, barred windows, barred gates to many shops (how offputting is that to customers!), warning signs and guards everywhere, paying car park guards every time you park anywhere.

But, despite the negatives, we have visited some great places and stayed in some excellent B&B’s – outstanding was Lilies an Leopards at Dana Bay (near Mossel Bay, which we weren’t impressed with)– this is the room with towels tied in ribbon and flowers and a wonderful sea view from the balcony – the small touches, such as fresh herbs in the napkin rings, were worthy of a 5 star hotel and more.

Then a bush hideaway, Badgers Lodge at Knysna, with a pool and nice bar area, a short drive from the main town. Some great walks on the Headlands overlooking the town and lagoon and lots of nice shops that I wasn’t allowed to study – only Mugg and Bean cafe for the free wifi!

Picked M&B up again at Plettenberg Bay, a bit further along the coast and had 2 nights self catering at 113 Robberg. Cheaper than the other B&B’s, but the s/c was nice, after eating out so much, and we spent a few hours sitting in the garden as change from “doing”. Unfortunately the main Robberg Nature Reserve was closed, as there was a plane crash in misty conditions, a few days before and 9 people died, so no entry whilst they investigated.

However, the area is surrounded by other reserves on the spectacular coast or the massive mountains just inland – we chose to go to Tsitikamma National Park and were well rewarded by crashing waves, steep gorges and several suspension bridges.

For anyone going to this area we would recommend looking into the chalets here – right on the rocky shore and pretty new with some memorable hikes to do. Also worth short stops on the N2, if you are passing through, at the Big Tree and the Storms River Bridge.

On our way back via the mountains tomorrow (Sunday 13th Feb) – last blogs back at Somerset West before fly back on Wednesday.